The SHOPDERMOPRO Expert Guide: Mastering PMU Colorimetry
Become an expert on pigment selection. Phototype, undertone, area... find the perfect shade for a stable and elegant result.
Comprendre le Phototype et le Sous-ton
L'étape cruciale pour éviter les "virages" de couleur (rouge, bleu, gris) et garantir un résultat stable.
Le Phototype
Échelle FitzpatrickDétermine la réaction de la peau au pigment et sa capacité de rétention.
Types I-II : Peau claire, pigments plus clairs, attention aux virages rosés
Types III-IV : Peau médium, large choix de nuances
Types V-VI : Peau foncée, pigments chauds recommandés
Le Sous-ton
Analyse VeinesIdentifiez le sous-ton pour choisir la nuance parfaite.
Chaud
Veines vertes
Pigments dorés, cuivrésNeutre
Veines bleu-vert
Polyvalence maximaleFroid
Veines bleues/violettes
Pigments cendrés, rosésExpertise SHOPDERMOPRO
Nos gammes BB Color REACH offrent des sous-tons chauds, neutres et froids pour s'adapter à chaque carnation. Formulation conforme au règlement REACH européen, garantissant une stabilité colorimétrique optimale sans virage grisâtre, bleuté ou violacé.
Guide par Zone et Technique
Chaque zone a des exigences spécifiques en termes de pigmentation et de consistance.
Eyebrows
12-24 monthsRedesign, densify, restructure. Correction of asymmetries and densification of sparsely populated areas.
Complete range: From light blondes to deep browns, intense blacks. Palette with controlled undertones.
Lips
18-36 monthsWatercolor lips, contour + gradient filling, lipstick effect. Intensification and correction of asymmetries.
Broad spectrum: Nudes, Pinks, Corals, Reds with neutralizers for pigmented skin.
Areolas & Scars
24-48 months3D reconstruction, camouflage, harmonization of depigmented areas after surgery or accident.
Realistic skin tones from light to dark with warm, neutral and cool undertones.
Eyeliner
12-24 monthsClassic liner, soft liner, eyeshadow. Intensification of the gaze and correction of the lash line.
Eye-friendly colors: Deep blacks, browns, subtle touches of color.
Tableau Comparatif Complet
| Zone | Objectif | Tenue | Pigments | Techniques |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sourcils | Redessiner, densifier, restructurer | 12-24 mois | Blonds clairs à Bruns profonds, Noirs intenses | Microblading, Hairstroke, Powdery Brows, Ombrage |
| Lèvres | Aquarelle, contour, lipstick effect | 18-36 mois | Nudes, Roses, Coraux, Rouges + neutralisants | Aquarelle Lips, Full Lips, Correction asymétries |
| Aréoles/Cicatrices | Reconstruction 3D, camouflage | 24-48 mois | Nuances chair réalistes (clair à foncé) | Dermopigmentation réparatrice, Reconstruction 3D |
| Eyeliner | Liner classique, soft liner, eye-shadow | 12-24 mois | Couleurs adaptées aux yeux | Liner classique, Soft Liner, Effet smoky |
Le Rôle du Matériel
La colorimétrie s'exprime pleinement avec un matériel adapté et maîtrisé.
Choix de l'Aiguille
Le bon choix de l'aiguille est essentiel pour une dépose homogène du pigment.
Maîtrise du Dermographe
La régularité de vitesse et le moteur stable sont cruciaux pour une diffusion pigmentaire homogène.
Conseil Expert
The combination of a pigment adapted to the phototype, a needle corresponding to the technique and a well-adjusted dermograph constitutes the winning triptych for an impeccable result.
Ready to master colorimetry?
Our Sviato Academy certification courses support you in deepening your knowledge of these techniques.
Complete dermopigmentation protocol
From skin preparation to touch-up, SHOPDERMOPRO supports each step: equipment, pigments, accessories and method, for a controlled and reproducible result.
Skin preparation
Cleaning, disinfection, marking of lines and taking photos beforehand.
Before starting, the skin is carefully cleansed, disinfected, and analyzed: skin type, areas of fragility, medical history. Reference points are marked, measurements taken, and the plan approved with the client.
Hygiene accessories, consumables, workstation protection.
Pigment selection
Colorimetry, undertones, aesthetic objective and evolution over time.
The pigment is chosen according to skin tone, undertone, area (eyebrows, lips, areolas), and the desired result. The goal: a stable color that evolves naturally without any unwanted changes over the months.
BB Color ranges, areola & scar pigments, correction pigments.
Needle & settings
Needle selection, depth, speed, pressure, angle.
Depending on the area and technique (powdered, hairstroke, liner, reconstruction), the practitioner chooses the appropriate needle configuration (1R, 3RL, RS, magnum…), adjusts the speed, depth and pressure for controlled pigment deposition.
Universal needles, BASIC needles, stable & ergonomic dermographs.
Application & plotting
Regular movements, controlled passes, respect for the skin.
The lines are drawn with a smooth, consistent motion, constant pressure, and strict adherence to hygiene rules. The goal: a uniform result, without over-treating the skin, respecting the natural shape and expression of the face or area.
Technical training, protocols, demonstrations, educational journal.
Healing & Touch-up
Follow-up, post-procedure care and final adjustments.
After the session, the client follows a post-treatment care protocol to optimize healing: hydration, protection, and specific instructions. A touch-up session allows for adjustments to the color, density, or details for a perfectly stabilized result.
Post-procedure care, customer advice, complementary products to prolong the result.
Materials + method = result.
SHOPDERMOPRO does not just provide products: we provide a complete working framework to secure your technique and your result.
