1RL vs 3RL PMU Cartridge Comparison 2026: Which Needle to Choose?
In brief: 1RL (Round Liner) cartridges are used for fine lines—hair strokes, eyeliner, outlines; 3RL (Round Shader) for fillings—powder brows, lips, shading. Diameter 0.18–0.30 mm depending on technique and phototype.
Key Takeaways
- 1RL nano 0.18–0.22: hair strokes, precise lines, nano brows.
- 3RL 0.25–0.30: powder brows, watercolor lips, eyebrow shading.
- UNIQUES (reinforced membrane) vs UNIVERSE (value for money) — both sterile CE certified.
- One cartridge = one client. Never reuse.
The choice between 1RL and 3RL cartridges directly impacts the outcome of your PMU services. This 2026 comparison, compiled by Sandrine Nourry for SHOPDERMOPRO, details configurations, associated techniques, and errors to avoid in the salon.
Anatomy of a PMU Cartridge
Each sterile CE cartridge includes: welded needle(s), an anti-reflux membrane, and a tip compatible with the dermograph. Nomenclature indicates the number of needles and the configuration:
- 1RL — 1 Round Liner needle (fine tip)
- 3RL — 3 grouped Round Liner needles (rounded tip)
- 5RS — 5 Round Shader needles (wide shading)
1RL vs 3RL: Comparative Table
| Criterion | 1RL | 3RL |
|---|---|---|
| Main Use | Hair strokes, eyeliner, outlines | Powder brows, lips, shading |
| Common Diameter | 0.18–0.25 mm | 0.25–0.30 mm |
| Dermal Depth | 0.6–0.8 mm (superficial) | 0.8–1.0 mm (medium) |
| Result | Individual strokes, natural | Powder effect, soft saturations |
| Suitable Skin Types | Thin, young, less oily skin | All phototypes, combination to oily skin |
| Implantation Speed | Slow (stroke by stroke) | Moderate (circular passes) |
When to Use 1RL?
- Nano brows / hair strokes — 1RL 0.18 or 0.22, low voltage, regular spacing
- Fine eyeliner — 1RL 0.25, continuous or dotted line depending on effect
- Lip contour — 1RL 0.25 before 3RL filling
- Nipple areola — 1RL 0.25 for nipple texture
Caution: on oily or mature skin, 1RL hair strokes last less — suggest 3RL powder or combo.
When to Use 3RL?
- Powder brows — 3RL 0.30, light circular passes, progressive build-up
- Watercolor lips — 3RL 0.25–0.30, gradient from contour inwards
- Combo brows — 3RL for shaded base + 1RL for strokes on top
- Annual touch-ups — 3RL to even out without oversaturating
UNIQUES vs UNIVERSE: Which Brand to Choose?
| Brand | Membrane | Positioning | Price |
|---|---|---|---|
| UNIQUES | Reinforced, premium | Demanding practitioners, high volume | €€€ |
| UNIVERSE | Standard CE | Excellent value for money | €€ |
| Basic | Entry-level | Training, synthetic skin | € |
Compatibility: check with your dermograph before bulk ordering.
Sandrine Nourry's Advice — Top Trainer Sviato Academy · Always keep both 1RL nano AND 3RL in salon stock. A combo brow requires both in the same session — missing one configuration will stall your service.
Frequently Asked Questions
1RL 0.18 or 0.25 for hair strokes?
0.18–0.20 for nano brows on fine skin; 0.22–0.25 for classic hair strokes. Finer = more technical, less forgiving of depth errors.
Can powder brows be done with a 1RL?
Not recommended: 1RL creates isolated dots, not homogeneous shading. Use 3RL or 5RS for powder brows.
How many cartridges should I plan for per month?
Approximately 2 cartridges per client (1 technique + backup). For 20 clients/month: minimum 40–50 cartridges in stock.
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