Complete Guide to Permanent Makeup Pigments: Types, REACH Standards, and Selection by Technique

Pigment is at the heart of every permanent makeup session. It is the substance that remains in your client's skin for 12 to 36 months, determining the final color, how it evolves over time, and overall satisfaction. Yet, it is often the most misunderstood choice: many practitioners select their pigments out of habit, on a colleague's recommendation, or based on price, without understanding the science behind the formulation.

This guide provides you with all the keys to making informed choices: understanding pigment families, mastering REACH 2022 regulations, adapting your selection to each client's phototype, and avoiding colorimetry errors that ruin a result.

What is a permanent makeup pigment?

A PMU pigment is an insoluble coloring substance that is deposited in the superficial dermis using a dermograph or microblading tool. Unlike artistic tattoo inks—which are designed to last a lifetime—permanent makeup pigments are formulated to fade gradually over a period of 1 to 3 years. It is this bioresorbability property that differentiates PMU from traditional tattooing.

The final perceived color does not depend solely on the pigment itself. It results from the interaction of three factors: the chemical composition of the pigment, the depth of deposition in the skin, and the client's phototype (skin color, undertone, dermal thickness). This is why two clients who receive the same pigment can achieve visually different results.

The three families of PMU pigments

Mineral pigments (inorganic)

Mineral pigments are composed of metal oxides: iron oxide (reds, browns, yellows), titanium dioxide (white, lightening), carbon black (blacks). They are the oldest on the market and the most chemically stable.

Advantages:

• Very good opacity and covering power

• High color stability over the long term

• Low allergenic risk

• Available in a wide range of natural shades

Disadvantages:

• Often denser viscosity, thicker deposit

• Possible evolution to cool tones (grey-blue) on certain phototypes

• Sometimes more opaque and less natural appearance than organic pigments

Mineral pigments are particularly suited for filling techniques (powdery brows, full lips) and color corrections. Their opacity makes them a reference choice for scar camouflage and areolar reconstruction.

Organic pigments

Organic pigments are composed of synthetic carbon-based molecules. They offer brighter, more luminous, and more transparent colors than mineral pigments. Their rendering is often considered more natural, especially on light skin tones.

Advantages:

• Bright and luminous colors

• More natural and transparent finish

• Ideal for subtle techniques (watercolor lips, soft liner)

• Good fluidity for even deposition

Disadvantages:

• Less predictable stability — some organic molecules can shift color

• Generally shorter retention than minerals

• Slightly higher allergenic risk (depending on the molecules used)

Organic pigments are the preferred choice for light techniques, watercolor effects, and subtle finishes. However, they require a more refined knowledge of colorimetry, as their behavior in the skin is more variable.

Hybrid pigments

Hybrid pigments combine mineral and organic components in a single formulation. The goal is to combine the advantages of both families: the stability of minerals and the luminosity of organic pigments. This is the dominant market trend in 2026 and the category to which BB Color and Sviato Academy pigments, distributed by SHOPDERMOPRO, belong.

Advantages:

• Balance stability / luminosity

• Technical versatility (suitable for all areas and techniques)

• Natural and progressive evolution

• Modern formulations compliant with REACH 2022

Why hybrids dominate the market:

The REACH 2022 regulation has eliminated many traditional PMU pigment components. Manufacturers had to reformulate their ranges, and hybrids became the industrial answer to this constraint: they comply with the new standards while offering superior performance to older formulations. This is why SHOPDERMOPRO has made the exclusive choice to distribute latest-generation hybrid pigments.

REACH 2022 regulation: what you need to know

The REACH (Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals) regulation is the European regulatory framework governing the use of chemical substances. Since January 4, 2022, a specific annex (Annex XVII, entry 75) applies to tattoo inks and permanent makeup pigments.

What REACH 2022 prohibits

• More than 4,000 chemical substances are now prohibited or restricted in PMU pigments

• Certain azo dyes that release carcinogenic aromatic amines

• Several traditional blue and green pigments (Blue 15, Green 7)

• Preservatives and solvents used in older formulations

What REACH 2022 requires

• Full labeling: composition, batch number, expiration date, manufacturer's name

• Declaration of conformity for each pigment

• Maximum concentration for many substances

• Full traceability of the manufacturing chain

How to check the conformity of your pigments

1. Check that the mention "REACH 2022 compliant" or "REACH compliant" appears on the label or technical sheet

2. Ask the supplier for the declaration of conformity (official document)

3. Check the country of manufacture: pigments manufactured in the EU are de facto subject to REACH

4. Beware of old stock: a pigment manufactured before 2022 may not be compliant even if sold in 2026

All pigments distributed by SHOPDERMOPRO (BB Color, Sviato Academy) comply with the REACH 2022 regulation. Declarations of conformity are available upon request for each reference.

Colorimetry: choosing the right pigment by phototype

The client's phototype is the number one parameter for pigment selection. The Fitzpatrick scale classifies skin into 6 phototypes, from lightest to darkest. Each phototype reacts differently to the implanted pigment and influences chromatic evolution.

The most common colorimetry errors

• Eyebrows too warm on cool skin: using a pigment with too warm an undertone (orange, golden) on phototype I or II results in a reddish healed outcome. Solution: choose a cool or neutral undertone.

• Gray eyebrows after healing: a pigment that is too cool on warm-toned skin fades to gray-ash. Solution: warm up the base with a yellow or orange corrector.

• Lips turning blue: common on phototypes III to VI with overly cool pink pigments. The skin's melanin neutralizes the pink and reveals the residual blue. Solution: start with a coral or a warm base.

• Eyeliner bleeding: a pigment that is too fluid or excessive depth of deposit causes pigment migration into the tissues. Solution: denser pigment + long taper cartridge + moderate speed.

Storage and Shelf Life of Pigments

PMU pigment is not eternal. Its unopened shelf life is generally 24 to 36 months from the manufacturing date. Once opened, the bottle should be used within 6 to 12 months according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Essential Storage Rules

• Store at room temperature (15 to 25 degrees C), away from direct light

• Never expose to frost or temperatures above 30 degrees C

• Close tightly after each use

• Never pour used pigment back into the original bottle (cross-contamination)

• Use disposable single-use pigment cups for each client

• Write the opening date on the bottle

FAQ — Permanent Makeup Pigments

What is the difference between a pigment and tattoo ink?

PMU pigment is bioresorbable (it fades in 1 to 3 years) while tattoo ink is designed to be permanent. The formulations are different: PMU pigments use larger particles and compositions optimized for the superficial dermis. Tattoo ink should never be used for permanent makeup.

Are BB Color pigments REACH 2022 compliant?

Yes, the entire BB Color range (Brow, Lips, Areolas, For Mix) complies with European REACH 2022 regulations. Declarations of conformity are available upon request from SHOPDERMOPRO.

How long does permanent makeup pigment last?

Durability depends on several factors: technique used, depth of deposit, pigment quality, phototype, client's metabolism, and aftercare. On average, a quality pigment lasts between 12 and 36 months. Powdery brows and machine techniques generally last longer than microblading.

Can I mix pigments from different brands?

It is technically possible if both pigments are REACH compliant and compatible (hybrid + hybrid). However, inter-brand mixing increases the risk of unexpected color shifts. For guaranteed results, it is preferable to stay within the same range — BB Color and Sviato pigments are designed to be mixable with each other.

Which pigment should I use for my first session as a beginner?

Start with the most versatile shades: a neutral medium brown for eyebrows (suitable for 60% of clients) and a universal pink-nude for lips. Avoid extreme shades (very light blonde, intense black) until you have 20 to 30 sessions of experience.